There are about 272 days in a year that Hilo, Hawaii receives some rain.  The annual rainfall is usually above 130 inches a year.  However, there was one year the city only received 60 inches.  I would be prepared, though, for rain.

 

In reality, Hilo is the “Fourth” wettest city in America.  There are three other cities in Alaska that have more rain.  Ketchikan is proud to announce its claim.  Ironically, the two times we were in Ketchikan, it was quite sunny.

Hilo is on the windward side of the Big Island of Hawaii, the largest island in the Hawaiian chain.  The other side of the Big Island—Kailua-Kona– is referred to as the “dry side.”  We prefer the drier climate.

 

The island of Hawaii is made up of two very large volcanoes:  the active volcano Mauna Loa (13,679 feet) and the dormant volcano Mauna Kea (13,796 feet). 

The thirty Meter Telescope on Mauna Kea has brought Native Hawaiian protests who want their mountain back for religious and ecological reasons. 

 

The Hawaiian Kingdom was overthrown in 1893. If you are not truly Hawaiian, you are more than likely a “Haole.”

It was said that over a thousand canoes would gather in Hilo in the early 1800’s.  Many of these canoes could carry a hundred men.  King Kamehameha I united Hawaii in 1810. All throughout Hawaii, you may come across a statue of King Kamehameha I.

 

Another statue less seen is of Captain James Cook who was the first European to travel to the Hawaiian Island, January 18, 1778.  Just a little more than a year later, February 14th, 1779, Captain Cook was killed along Kealakekua Bay near Kailua-Kona–the “dry-side” of the Big Island.   It is widely believed that his body was cannibalized. 

Whaling was a big time economic activity for about thirty years starting in 1830. 

 

There are actually two International airports on the Big Island.  All the major airlines fly to Hawaii.  We like to use Hawaiian Airlines. One airport is in Hilo and the other in Kailua-Kona. You can rent a car in either place and drop it off at any of the two airports.  To circle the island takes six hours.

Hilo is the largest city on the Big Island with about 60,000 people.

 

There is the University of Hawaii located in Hilo.  After Easter, the town is filled with Hawaiians competing in hula contests known as the Merrie Monarch Festival. We were able to see a group demonstrating at a local park.

 

Hilo is not our favorite place in Hawaii.  So, why go there? The region is interesting.  Also, Hilo is the gateway to Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park which is less than thirty miles away. 

One of the most unusual National Parks you will ever want to see.  The crater, lava fields, lava tube and the ocean drive are spectacular. If you are really into volcanoes, there are helicopter tours.

 

Every so often, there is lava that gushes out.  We were there in 1998 when there was a lava episode. A sign by the ocean warned us of the hazards of trekking four miles to see the lava flow into the ocean.  From the distance, one could see the smoke.  An entire community was wiped out in 1998.

 

Since our last visit in 2015, there has been plenty of eruption activity—particularly in 2018.  You do have to not only watch out for the lava, but also the dangerous sulfur dioxide gas that can kill you–as well as the road!

Every time we go to Volcanoes National Park we visit “Thurston’s Lava Tube.”  This is a geological phenomenon whereby an actual tube is formed by the lava. 

 

One should always ride to the ocean via the “Chain of Craters Road.”  It is over 18 miles long.  Make sure you have a good tank of gas.

There is a place to actually stay in the Volcanoes National Park called “The Volcano House.”  On two of our visits, this lodge has been closed. It is a superb vista point to see the Kilauea Caldera. Most people, though, bed-down in Hilo and make the drive.

We have stayed in Hilo Hawaiian hotel twice along Banyan Drive. It is your normal large hotel with comfortable rooms.  Just down the street there is a Double Tree.

 

Our last visit, we stayed in the iconic and budget hotel of Uncle Billy’s. If you look on Trip Advisor, it has received three times as many “terrible” reviews than excellent ones.  We came the week after the Hula competition and was able to snag a “waterfront room.” 

From our porch, we were able to look out into the bay and watch the cruise ships sail by. At night, the frogs were deafening.  The windows were jalousie style and the AC unit in one of the windows.  It was a classic 1950’s style hotel, but thoroughly rundown. I loved it, Kathie not so much. 

 

 

One day in the foyer, we noticed a display of a picture of Uncle Billy and his wife.  Also, nearby was a Japanese woman who was the hotel’s best friend. She has been around the area since the 1930’s.  The Japanese people have played an intrinsic part in the history of Hilo.

 

Along this hotel drive, are huge Banyan trees.  They were planted when an important person came to Hilo.  

 

In your walk around Banyan drive, you may come across squirl like critters known as a Mongoose.  They were brought in Sugar Cane farmers to control the rat population.  As it turns out, the Mongoose are diurnal while the rats are nocturnal.

 

In our 1998 visit, there is the Suisan building along the bay.  It is here where we saw Tuna being auctioned. 

 

At the park where the King Kamamahea statue is, we spotted Hawaii’s famous geese, the Nene.

 

Walking around in Hawaii you have to be cognizant of the coconut trees above you.

 

One of our first restaurants we went to was Ken’s House of Pancakes.  Ken has since sold it, but the name is famous in Hilo.  The Macadamia Nut pancakes are the best.

One of our all-time favorite restaurants in Hilo is Café Pesto.  Great Stir-fry dishes, pizza and fish. When we think about Hilo, we always imagine Pesto’s. 

In town there is the Pacific Tsunami Museum.  The building was once a bank and the vault can still be seen.

 

There are a number of good pictures of when Hilo has been swamped by two tsunamis’: 1946 and 1960.  The bay is a perfect conduit for tidal waves.

 

Not far from downtown, is Rainbow Falls. If you hit it just right, the sun and the spraying water magically produces a rainbow.  We would not be so fortunate to see one.

By Rainbow Falls is a huge tree.  I don’t know if it is a Banyan, but this tree has a huge girth.

 

About ten miles south of Hilo—on the way to Volcanoes Nat’ Park—is Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Visitor’s Center.  A quick visit is enough to take a picture.

There literally hundreds of thousands of Macadamia nut trees in the vicinity.  My favorite Macadamia nuts are original, honey-roasted and garlic infused.  

You can buy Macadamia nuts at ABC stores—more like Hawaii’s version of a 7-Eleven.

 There are several ways to get to the “dry-side” of Hawaii, Kona.  To actually circle the island will take six hours.  The longer way is to go south near Volcanoes Nat’ Park.  The shortest route is to go between the two volcanoes using “Saddle Road.”  The highest point of elevation to this road is 6,632 feet.  The road has been improved since our last visit in 2015.  We have never traveled on Saddle Road.

Our usual route is to go north on Highway 19, known as the Hawaii Belt Road.  We once stopped at Hawaii’s Tropical Bioreserve & Garden.  It was worth a stop.  However, the National Botanical garden on Kauai is far better. 

 

Along the way, you may come across people who are surfing, kayaking and paddle boarding.

 

Just a few miles further, and only about 13 miles north of Hilo is the famous Akaka Falls.  It is the longest falls in Hawaii at 422 feet.

We left undone going to Umauma Falls which is just north on High 19. There are a number of stops with beautiful vistas.

 About fifty miles north is Waipi’o Valley Lookout. Most people just go to the Lookout.  There is a 25% grade going down in the valley.  I have read there are tours that will take you in this famous valley. We have never tried.