Falling in Love with Maui

Maui is one of the top destinations for anyone wanting to visit Hawaii. Not counting 2020—the year of Covid19—there has been well over two million visitors annually to Maui.  Plenty of Canadians and USA citizens like to visit this island.

Maui is the second largest island in Hawaii.  It is my favorite Hawaiian Island while Kathie’s favor is Oahu.   Maui has enough resorts, activities and places to see to keep you busy for at least a week.

Maui’s main International airport is in Kahului with the initials of: OGG.  Even though most of the airport is “open air,” it is a modern airport with all the conveniences.  We usually rent our vehicles through the Costco web site and pick it up at the airport.

Maui was made by two volcanic mountains that have made an isthmus valley between.  This geological process is sometimes referred to as a “volcanic doublet.” 

 

The largest mountain on the eastern side, Haleakala, is over 10,000 feet.  About 20,000 years ago, Maui was once joined by fellow islands of Lanai and Molokai due to reduced sea levels.

In the winter times of January thru April, Maui is the home to about 10,000 humpback whales.  These whales migrate over 3500 miles from Alaska every season. 

While off the coast of Maui—particularly in the Auau Channel– the female’s give birth and breed.  It is a known fact these whales do not eat anything while in Hawaii—not even a coconut.

The humpback whale is a protected species. There is estimated to be over 80,000 humpbacks in the world.  They can grow over 50 feet in length. Scientists believe they can live between 45-50 years. 

There are a number of certified companies that will take tourists out to see the humpbacks. 

We have always favored Trilogy Tours.  We took them in 1998 to see the island of Lanai.  They have always treated their patrons first class.

Over twenty years ago, we first started to do research about making a sojourn out to Hawaii—a 6000 mile trip from Jensen Beach.  A friend of mine said “he would love to see Hawaii, but it is too expensive.”  We don’t think so and this expose will explain why. 

Since our first experience in 1998, we have come back to all the islands in 2003, 2007, 2012 and two and a half months in 2015.  We know something about Hawaii.

When we do go to a restaurant, it is usually for lunch–a less expensive meal.  Also, we do visit Hawaii’s major supermarket, Safeway. 

Maui is famous for the “Road to Hana.”  That sojourn is in a future blog. 

Many people fly all the way to Hawaii from the East Coast.  We prefer to break the trip up.  A number of times we flew into exciting Las Vegas. Three nights in Vegas is long enough. We have stayed at the Best Western, Westin, Bally’s, Planet Hollywood and even The Mirage.  I prefer the last mention hotel since it has a beautiful pool waterfall. A future blog about Vegas is coming. 

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We have also spent time in the interesting city of San Francisco.

We fly onward to either Maui or Oahu.  Likewise, when we fly back from Hawaii we usually stop in San Francisco, San Diego or even Seattle. From Seattle, we take a ferry over to Victoria, Canada and explore Vancouver.  One of these years we will attempt Los Angeles. 

Most of our flights are paid with airmiles through Visa or even our Gold American Express.  The last credit card has affiliation with Hawaiian Airlines—considered by many to be one of the best airlines. 

We usually stay in studio apartments.  We like to use VRBO and Airbnb.  Our first stay in Maui was in a studio apartment in Napili Bay.  We paid $60 dollars a night.  It did not have AC which is very common in the Hawaiian Islands.  Not having AC did not bother me, but it did bother Kathie somewhat.  We now search out apartments with AC. 

Most people stay in three areas of Maui: Kihei, Wailea or along the West Coast along Kaanapali-Lahaina area.  We have always enjoyed in Hawaii’s oldest capital—Lahaina. 

The fishing village of Lahaina became the first official capital in 1820. The community became a major hub for the whaling industry.  This history is well illustrated in James Michener’s 1300 page novel, “Hawaii.”  I have actually read that work twice.

 

There is evidence that the Hawaiians came from Polynesia in around 450 AD.  It was King Kamehameha the Great that united Hawaii in 1810. 

Captain Cook was the first European to see Maui in 1778.  They did not land for the lack of seeing a suitable harbor.  Captain Cook called these islands “the Sandwich Islands” after an English Earl of Sandwich.  A year later Cook was murdered by the natives on the Big Island of Hawaii. Today, there is a monument  to Captain Cook on the Big Island in Kealakekua Bay.   

Using European weapons, King Kamehameha 1st defeated the natives on Maui in 1810 close by to the Iao State Park. You can’t miss the Iao Needle landmark. The King would unite Hawaii. 

 

There are trails in the Iao State Park and even a stream.  The battle of Kepaniwai was so fierce that bodies damned the stream known in history as “damming of the waters. Today, Hawaiians entertain the tourists in that same stream.

In the early 19th century missionaries arrived from New England which provided a major cultural impact.  These missionaries not only brought the word of the Lord, but were able to create a 12 alphabet Hawaiian language.  Using the printing press, they were able to produce a Hawaiian Bible using 5 vowels and 7 consonants. 

Most people will greet you with the Hawaiian greeting, “ALOHA!”  The word has various meanings such as love, welcome and “farewell.”

 

The Hawaiian word “Mahalo,” means “Thank You.”   First timers have a tough time remember street names with all the “Os” and “Us.”  

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In Lahaina, stands the oldest building in Maui, the Baldwin House. 

David Baldwin was a missionary sent to Lahaina in the early 1830’s.  His home was reconstructed in 1966. The public is allowed to tour this historic home and see how the missionaries lived with authentic artifacts.

 In the 19th Century, sugar cane farming became a major industry for Maui.  They still grow the cane.

Today tourism is the major industry.

 

 

Our first stay in Lahaina was at the Best Western Pioneer Inn.  It was recommended by travel writer Arthur Frommer. In fact, we made it a point to stay in the same room as he did–#32.  We had a second story balcony room.  Every night we listened to thousands of birds that came back to the banyan tree across the street.  Even though a small room, it was enjoyable and affordable.

 

Since our 1998 travel, we have found the work of Andrew Doughty to be our major guide to the Hawaiian Islands.

That banyan tree adjacent from our Pioneer Inn balcony is considered to be the oldest and largest banyan tree in the United States.  A man named Owen Smith planted this tree on April 24th, 1873.  It is an iconic tree not only in Lahaina but Maui and Hawaii too. The largest ones are in India, but this one is huge. 

The community uses the banyan tree to promote arts and crafts. 

Our last three stays have been at the Lahaina Shores Resort Condos. It does have a small pool.

The management at Lahaina Shores is friendly.  And there is outside and garage parking. 

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Twice we had studios that faced the ocean.   In the distance you can see the island of Lanai–“The Garden of the Gods.” The Oracle Company founder, Larry Ellison, purchased the entire island in 2012 for $300 million. 

The sunsets in Hawaii are amazing. A picture from our balcony. 

In 2015, we had a mountain view room for three weeks–$125 a night.  We prefer the ocean view side. 

 One of the main reasons we selected Lahaina Shores Condo is the walking ability into the old town of Lahaina along Front Street.

On our walk is a small elementary school.  We noticed that the crossing guard would always hug and even give a loving kiss on the head with the small students.  Something you would not see in the other States.

The shops and cafés along Front Street are quaint with plenty of ambiance.

We always take a picture by the large jaw of a shark in the window.  

One year we even spotted a rifle apparently used by “Bonnie and Clyde.” Someone must have purchased it by now.

We found people in Hawaii hard-working and most of all, friendly with the ALOHA spirit.

We have met a number of friendly people on our travels to Maui.

You have to admire a culture that calls a bread truck, “LOVES.”

We did enjoy going into the Fleetwood Mac’s restaurant on Front Street.  Since our last visit in 2015, the co-founder, Peter Green has passed on.  Mick Fleetwood is still alive.  The establishment exhibits the vintage drums of the group.

Also, in Fleetwood’s establishment is an authentic 1933 Austin 7 known as “Lettuce Leaf.” 

There is a second story patio at Fleetwood’s that overlooks the Pacific Ocean.  We did not order the hamburger, valued over $38K. 

Down the road, there is a Ruth Chris and a Bubba Gump restaurant.  What makes this Bubba Gump so unusual is that there is a large tree “in” the restaurant worth seeing. 

 

 

The service and food at Bubba’s can be a hit or miss.  It was once where Chris Pratt—rather homeless–at the age of 19–served food at this establishment. He was “found” by someone from Hollywood. The picture below is from the movie “Passengers.” 

In 2003, we did enjoyWarren’s & Annabelle’s Magic show. As of 2020, the show was still going on strong.  A popular hit.

It was on our 5th sojourn to Hawaii that we broke down to see an Hawaiian luau.  Doughty and Frommer’s both recommended “The Old Lahaina Luau.”  We have seen luau’s from afar, but never spent the hundred or so bucks to be at one. Let’s say,”it was an experience.”  The food was “OK.” Poi is not one of my favorites.

Walking along Front Street we did see a few interesting license plates:

The port of Lahaina is where the tenders from various cruise ships come into. 

On our walk around the port, we did find an unpretentious boat—we believe from the owner of the sunglass company, Maui Jim.

In 2012, a small Canadian sailboat marooned itself on the reef.  It became a hot-spot for surfers and photographers a like.

We didn’t know how big surfing is in Hawaii until our visits.  Surfing is a major activity for all ages.

About three miles west of Lahaina, is a one-mile beach area known as “Kaanapali.”  There are 7 major resorts here.

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Walking on the grass is to die for.

 

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All through Maui are major golf resorts.  These facilities are first class.  So beautiful, and we don’t even play golf.

We enjoy visiting the “Grotto” at the Hyatt pool along Kaanapali.  We split a rather pricy Pina Colada. 

The famous drink in Hawaii is not the Pina Colada, it is the Mai-Tai. Too many of these delicious Mai-Tais can land you big headache!

I get to swim in the Hyatt’s Grotto without having to worry about not having a wrist band for the pool’s hotel. 

For the last two journeys to the Grotto, we have met friendly Eddie.  His son was in college and Eddie was proudly paying for his sons education. 

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One of our favorite Maui restaurants is located along the Kaanapali Resort area is called “Hula’s.”

  Mid-day there is someone always playing music.  The service and food are superb. 

Kathie enjoyed a Gazpacho soup and a tasty grilled cheese sandwich.

I had spicy spare ribs—much like the ones you can find at PF. Chang’s. 

If you want dessert, we highly recommend trying Dukes Hula pie.

We always find parking at the multi-level garage.  We found if you patronize a restaurant or buy something out of a convenience store known as ABC, your parking is free. 

One of our favorite beach areas is close by known as “Sheraton Black Rock” or “Black Rock Beach.”   

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Almost every night the Sheraton Resort has a “free”show of lighting torches on the Black Rocks.

Sunsets can be beautiful from this vantage point.

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Snorkeling is superb at Black Rock.  People do jump off the cliff.  The last time I was able to spot a turtle close by. 

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My favorite snorkeling spot is “Mile Marker 33” just west of Napili and Kapalua.  I have found superb snorkeling in Honolua Bay.  People pay $60 dollars by boat to come here; or you can drive the rental car and hopefully find a parking space. It was here where I found a man’s “gold ring.”  Luckily, it had the owners name inscribed inside and I was able to track the owner.  The family was very happy. 

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The jungle to the beach looks like something Tarzan would have fun in.  Luckily, the owner allows people to walk through their property known as “Honolua Bay Access Trail.”  The best part of Hawaii: there are “NO” snakes in any of the islands. 

Close by is Kapalua Beach which has become a favorite. A beautiful crescent shaped beach.  In the picture below in the distance is the island of Molokai. 

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This beach is connected to the Kapalua Coastal Trail. 

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Just a bit further by car is the “Dragon’s Teeth Access Trail.” 

Kathie had fun walking around ‘Kapalua Labyrinth.”

At one end of the Kapalua trail is the Ritz-Carlton.  It is “free” to explore inside this magnificent hotel.

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The two-lane road goes around the west side of Maui.  We recommend starting from Lahaina as you are on the “inside” of the two-lanes—going clockwise.  We do not recommend doing this route “counter-clockwise,” particularly getting off a five-hour flight.  It seems shorter route to Lahaina, it is not—trust us. 

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Along the way, you will see Kahakuloa Head.

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When visiting Maui, we always make an annual pilgrimage up to Haleakala, a dormant volcanic 10,023-foot mountain.  This National Park was founded in 1961.

Being seniors now, we have the NP pass. We circumvent having to pay the $30 fee into the park. In 1998, the price was $5. There is a well paved two-lane road all the way to the summit.  The views are outstanding, obviously.

 

In our first three visits to the summit, tour companies would sponsor bicycle trips from the summit.  The trail was 27 miles, all downhill.

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As of 2007, the Park Service has stopped these companies from using the National Park as a bike trail due to a high number of injuries and fatalities.  We thought about doing it.  We didn’t like the idea of having to use your breaks constantly.  The bike trail now begins outside the park.

You may see signs about watching out for the Nene.  The Hawaiian goose is endemic in the Hawaiian Islands. Very much like Canadian goose, these rare birds are believed to have arrived in Hawaii over 500,000 years ago.  We have seen many on the island of Kauai.  

What many people do is to go up Haleakala before sunrise.  This means getting on the road by 4:00 AM. We actually drove ourselves, but there are tour companies that will take you up.   The road is dark and I am glad the fellow ahead of me knew where they were going. 

 

It is indeed very cold at 10,023 feet, even in summer. Many people bring blankets.  Definitely, you do not want to wear shorts and a tee-shirt. 

What I remember most, was the seeing the Space Station going overhead.  What Kathie remembers most was the “singing” that went on by local Hawaiians.  The views and sunrise are majestic.

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If it is clear, one can see the observatories eighty miles away on the Big Island’s 13,803 feet volcano of Mauna Kea. 

At the very top of Haleakala’s summit, there  are governmental observatories which are closed to the public. 

At that attitude, the Silversword plant survives.

The Silverswords is an endangered flora. It is illegal to touch or take this plant. 

A number of years ago, a tourist from New Jersey tried to smuggle a Silversword out of the airport.  He was caught and paid a rather hefty fine–$50,000 dollars and a year in prison.

A Silversword will die after it blooms. It can live anywhere from 5 to 40 years. My pic from 2003

If you are as high as Haleakala, we recommend a ride through Maui’s “Upcountry.”  A bit more isolated, definitely cooler, some people love this area.  There is a winery to explore.

If you are visiting in April, you may see the South American sub-tropical tree Purple Jacaranda in bloom.

Kahului is the largest city.  All your services are located here including a good size Walmart, Target, Whole Foods and hundred stores at the Queen Kaahumanu Center Mall.  This is where you would find a Macy’s. 

In Walmart, there is even a McDonald’s.  We noticed that this McDonald’s serves Hawaii’s favorite meat—Spam—which became “the thing” during WWII. 

These Hawaiian’s love their Spam as well as Portuguese sausage.

It is in Wailea area where many major resorts are located: Fairmont, Four Seasons and the Marriott to name a few famous names. Exploring them is free. 

There is a beautiful coastal walkway that connects all the resorts.

At the Grand Wailea Resort, there is a unique chapel.  It has become one of Maui’s most popular destinations for all types of activities—weddings included.

For various reasons, we have always made the extra effort to stay in West Maui, particularly Lahaina.  Along the 45-minute travel from the airport, there are a number of Monkey Pod trees along the route that provide real beauty. 

There is a distinctive ambiance about Maui that always draws us back.  We have friends who go to the Bahamas every summer.  Why visit the same place?  Maui has become our Bahamas.

 

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